Humphreys Peak

My primary goal during our July visit to Flagstaff was to view Arizona from 12,633 feet.  This is the height at which Humphreys Peak tops out, representing the highest point in all of Arizona.  The peak soars high above the tree line, the point at which the only patch of alpine tundra in the entire state takes hold.  I had never hiked at this elevation - never above a tree line - and was super stoked when the morning of the hike finally arrived.

At the Arizona Snowbowl Trailhead

We were up in the 4 o'clock hour in order to be at the trailhead by 6:00 a.m.  Under clear skies, I said goodbye to my wife and set off for the 9.6-mile round-trip hike at 6:15.  Getting an early start on this hike is not only desirable, it is mandatory as far as I'm concerned.  July in Arizona can bring monsoons and mountains of such magnitude as the San Francisco Peaks, of which Humphreys belongs, can create their own weather any time of the year.  Only four days prior to my visit a tragedy occurred at the summit when a teenager was killed by a lightning strike.  He was hiking with two friends when a thunderstorm developed over the peaks in the early afternoon.  As there is nowhere to hide on the treeless tundra, I decided I should be on my way down the mountain before 10:00 a.m.

Trail cuts under a ski lift before entering a thick forest

Forested section of trail is a relatively gradual climb

The hike really isn't as intimidating as some texts may indicate.  The majority of the hike carries you through the forest, which generally offers pretty decent footing. Only for the last mile or so, where the trail traverses the tundra, does the footing become a bit more treacherous.  For much of the hike - roughly the first three miles - the grade is gradual.  It helps, too, that the trailhead is located at 9,320 feet, requiring one to climb "only" 3,313 feet of elevation on foot. 

Magnificent views can be glimpsed through the forest

I was making good time.  At the pace I was maintaining, I would summit and be back down below the tree line before 10:00 a.m.  When it comes to exercising, sometimes it's hard to stay motivated.  There's almost a limitless number of excuses available to justify skipping a workout.  It can and oftentimes does become a slippery slope into a sedentary lifestyle.  But when I'm up on a mountain where the only way down is by foot or helicopter, I'm reminded of the importance of consistently pushing through what I openly admit can become stale and boring exercise routines.  I felt strong on the trail and had a sense of confirmation knowing that all of my training was paying dividends.

Approaching the tree line

There is a sign at 11,400 feet informing hikers there is no camping beyond this point.  As the trees give way to barren, rocky tundra, I am not sure why anyone would want to camp up here anyway.  With no trees obstructing the view, you can begin to see just how high you are by this point.  Humphreys Peak is still not visible as you cross the tundra.  Having read about the three false peaks as part of my due diligence, I was not even looking for it; instead, I was busy looking for trail markers, as the trail can at times be somewhat difficult to follow.  Fortunately, Humphreys Peak is a popular place, and you can usually see others up ahead if you don't readily see a trail marker.

Posts guide the way. In the background: 1 of 3 false peaks.

There was a fairly sizeable group of people at the summit by the time I arrived.  I made sure to look for the north face of the Grand Canyon, as I had been told it was visible from here.  Though I was able to easily identify it with my eyes, it didn't show up well in any of my pictures.  I plopped down on a rock to eat my peanut butter sandwich and enjoy a few moments on top of Arizona.  The weather was nice and not very windy at all.  There were a lot of bees buzzing around, but thankfully they weren't interested in what I was eating.  After maybe twenty minutes of R&R, it was time to start making my way back down.

The real Humphreys Peak

It doesn't get any higher than this in AZ

View from the summit

As I made my way down, passing others on their way up, I was surprised at the number of people who hadn't done their homework.  Many were hopeful they were viewing Humphreys over my shoulder.  When I explained to some the three false peaks, it was plainly obvious they were hearing this for the first time.  I was also surprised at how many people were heading up so late in the morning.  By the ten o'clock hour, the sky was darkening over Humphreys.  We were only four days removed from the fatality triggered by a rogue electrical storm.  Were these people even aware of this?

Expansive views along the trail to Humphreys Peak

I was off the trail at 11:35 a.m. with food and water to spare.  Naturally, it's a good idea to carry more supplies than you think you will need without, of course, completely overloading yourself.  As I waited on my wife, I only wished I had had the foresight to pack some flip-flops, as my feet were in need of some immediate relief.

Sitting there, I reflected on the hike.  Truly incredible, I remember thinking, the extremes Arizona offers.  Two hours ago I was 12,600 feet in the sky, atop a desolate alpine tundra region, and I'm only a two-hour drive from a scorching desert valley filled with cactus, yet also nearly void of trees.  In between are some of the prettiest forests and landscapes I've seen.  How truly lucky I am to call this place home.